A gap in your roof is loads worse than one in the wall. This technique eliminates the need to lower the present drywall in a straight line and offers the new drywall a stronger anchor. Unfold drywall compound over the patch, feathering out the sides. Fill the hole with plaster compound and sand the encompassing paint to roughen it up. Now reinforce the outlet with pieces of jointing tape, cover the tape with a bit more compound and leave it to dry.
You’ll need a minimum of two thin coats of compound and effective grit sandpaper to blend repairs into the remainder of the wall. To repair a gap in your wall usually requires some type of patch to cover the opening, whether or not it’s a metal patch like the one I’m holding here, or another piece of drywall like this.
If the crack extends by the seam’s paper tape, or if the tape has pulled unfastened from the wall, use a razor knife to chop the tape about 6 to 12 inches from both ends of the harm (picture 1 and 2). Remove the tape but be careful not to tear away the drywall’s paper covering.
When cutting drywall, measure out the appropriate length, score the drywall with a box cutter, bend and pop. The 2 commonest drywall compounds are lightweight and all-objective. Lay strips of fiberglass tape over the patched area to bolster it (image 5), extending the tape a few inches beyond the patch.
Apply joint compound to both sides of the corner, overlaying the bead patch to easy rough edges and cover any seams, feathering the edges. If you happen to’re patching a lot of holes and other damage, prime the patched walls before repainting – particularly for those who’re choosing a semi-gloss or shinier finish.