Robust as it’s, drywall can stand up to solely limited abuse. If the crack is on a vertical or horizontal seam, fastidiously widen the crack with the nook of a paint scraper, utility knife or chisel to determine if the crack extends utterly by way of the paper that’s protecting the seam (picture 2); and if the tape has pulled free from the wall floor.
If the crack extends by the seam’s paper tape, or if the tape has pulled unfastened from the wall, use a razor knife to cut the tape about 6 to 12 inches from both ends of the harm (picture 1 and a couple of). Remove the tape but watch out to not tear away the drywall’s paper overlaying.
Use metallic snips to chop a piece of new corner bead to suit the repair area (picture three). Apply a coat of joint compound to the corner, set the bead in place then apply one other layer of joint compound over it. Let dry completely then add another layer or two of compound relying on what is required (picture 4).
Install wood cleats towards the studs on each side of the opening to support the new drywall’s vertical edges (image 1). Use scrap wooden reminiscent of 1×2 furring for smaller repairs; if you’re replacing a large sheet of drywall, reinforce the opening with 2×3 lumber.
Place drywall piece over the damaged area (picture 1) and hint round it with a pencil (image 2). Use a drywall or reciprocating noticed to cut out the area throughout the traced traces (image 3). Minimize two pieces of 2×4 slightly bigger than the hole.